For Anna Bario and Page Neal, designing jewelry meant more than choosing the perfect stone — it meant making a lasting impact. Their company, Bario Neal, was born from the idea that “our most precious things come with a story,” and the beginning of that story is of utmost importance.
Sustainable fashion has eased its way into the growing culture of being environmentally mindful, and with this movement came an increase in jewelry companies focusing on how to source gemstones and metals without causing a devastating impact on the environment. For Bario and Neal, the principal and lead designers of their company, they sought to create jewelry with a meaning, saying, “to us, creating objects of lasting value means understanding their full impact and origins. [That means] the places the raw materials come from, all the hands that touch the materials and the jewelry as it’s made.”
The Philadelphia-based company creates all their jewelry pieces by hand, with all their diamonds and colored gems being traceable, mine to market products. The design process starts with the aesthetics of the piece, then to how it will be crafted and its functionality, says Bario and Neal. “Then we work out how to make it responsibly. That can mean researching new sources, new materials, or custom cutting.”
Along with supporting sustainable jewelry, the company, which mainly creates engagement and wedding bands, also supports LGBTQIA rights, working to “undermine and eliminate the presumption of heterosexuality that pervades much of the wedding and jewelry industry,” says Bario and Neal. “Supporting unity and advocating for human rights within the jewelry industry is a non-negotiable part of our mission.”
©Bario Neal Jewelry
Photo by Daniel Johnson
Like Bario Neal, for Caitlin Cimino and her namesake jewelry company, the story of her ethically sourced pieces is essential to her craft. Cimino, who started her company in 2010, takes a hands-on approach when it comes to her creations. “When I create jewelry, I tie a mindful practice around the entire process — from collecting plant material to sifting through mine debris for gemstones.” Cimino started her ethical business knowing the connection between the jewelry industry and the gemstone and metal mining industries, two industries that are “environmentally and ethically damaging,” Cimino says.
All the gemstones Cimino finds are collected from a privately owned mine in California where her company is based. According to her website, unlike other mines that neglect their surrounding environment, the mine Cimino visits encourages local ranchers to utilize their mining debris in their orchards. The metal she uses is high-quality, up-cycled sterling silver with its impurities removed, making the quality similar to newly mined metal. Cimino describes her jewelry as “Medicine Jewelry™” and has created a process surrounding this ideal. “When I sit at my workbench, I perform different ritual practices like lighting herbs and incense, saying prayers or mantras and setting intentions,” Cimino says. “I do this because everything we involve ourselves in has a story and energy intertwined within, and I believe in the importance of making the story of my jewelry pure and positive.”
For co-founder of the jewelry company Puck Wanderlust, Ranelle Chapman, a core mantra pulls together the focus of her brand with it being “one of collaboration and the shared wealth of skills to create something unique yet mindfully made,” says the company’s website. “The interest in sustainability is at the heart of the brand — from packaging to production.” Founded in 2015 in London, the name is derived from “Puck,” a mischievous fairy in English folklore, and “Wanderlust,” a strong desire for travel and adventure. The company’s team traveled outside of its home country to India and Bali where its jewelry is handcrafted.
Sun Mandala bracelet in silver
by Puck Wanderlust.
A mix of different gold rings with onyx and moonstone by Puck Wanderlust.
Photos courtesy of Puck Wanderlust
Moon Mandala pendant necklace in gold
by Puck Wanderlust.
Puck Wanderlust works with small family-owned suppliers in these countries, their suppliers using recycled materials where possible while providing fair wages for their staff. According to the company, “we are committed to the ethical sourcing of our semi-precious stones and work closely with suppliers to ensure that they adhere to our code of conduct, which outlines strict standards of business behaviour.”
Puck Wanderlust also draws design inspiration from the countries that provide them with their materials. The latest “Bombay Deco Collection” is inspired by Indian Art Deco with geometric motifs and vibrant colors and patterns, according to Puck Wanderlust. In this collection, every design is handcrafted using 100-percent recycled silver and 18-carat gold vermeil, with each stone being “lovingly set.”
Niki Grandics, founder and designer of Enji Studio Jewelry in California, also sources her materials from around the world, buying them as close to the source as possible, she says, with rutile coming from a Pyramid mine in Bahia Brazil and her rich red rubies from Liberia. Grandics, who has always loved fashion and design, chose to ethically source her materials after the Rana Plaza factory collapse in 2013. The devastating event killed over 1,100 garment workers and injured over 2,000 more people, shaking the fashion industry to the core and causing companies to change where they source their materials. “The factory produced clothing for large brands I shopped with at the time,” Grandics says, “and it was shocking to me that so many young women — most garment workers are women age 18 to 35 — died so that young women like me in the West could buy the latest trends.”
Photo courtesy of Enji Studio Jewelry
Grandics’s favorite recent creation, the Ankoma Pendant. It’s made of rutilated hematite stone and hand-fabricated with recycled gold.
Enji — its name derived from Grandics initials “N” and “G” — goes beyond making modern and minimalist styles, but looks to shed light on issues in the industry that people may not be aware of, supporting projects that help end the use of toxic chemicals such as mercury, which is harmful to people and the surrounding environment.
Grandics’ future plans include putting together a map of where all the gemstones come from, creating “radical transparency,” something she believes fashion companies should start doing, along with becoming completely sustainable. “We only have this planet as far as I know and, given the scale of climate change, I think it’s imperative,” Grandics says. “If it can’t be reused, recycled, or biodegraded, it shouldn’t be in production, period.”
Photo courtesy of Enji Studio Jewelry
Aline Pendant: 2.25ct rutilated quartz and recycled 14k gold.
Paavo Studs: Recycled 14k gold, Montana sapphires and Canadamark diamonds.
Photos courtesy of Enji Studio Jewelry
Faustina Ring: Ruby slice, Montana sapphires and recycled 14k rose gold.
Upon learning that her engagement ring possibly contained a conflict diamond, CEO and founder of MiaDonna Anna-Mieke Anderson knew she had to make things right for herself and the jewelry industry. “I started sponsoring Ponpon, a 7-year-old boy in Liberia, Africa,” Anderson says. “It’s through our letters that I got a first-hand look at the realities of living in a diamond mining community. I will never forget the day he wrote to me and said, ‘I had a great summer because only one of my classmates was killed.’”
Anderson set out to source conflict-free diamonds the best possible way she could find: growing them in a lab. MiaDonna has led the evolution in the lab-grown diamond industry, with the company debuting the largest USA-grown diamond at the time, at 6.28 carats in 2016. To help combat the issue, Anderson created a foundation, The Greener Diamond, that works together with MiaDonna, and empowers communities to grow food instead of mining diamonds. With each purchase of a piece from MiaDonna, the money goes toward programs that restore the lives and lands of people in sub-Saharan Africa affected by mining.
©2016 Alex Milan Tracy
Anderson’s company, MiaDonna, is named after the two most influential people in her life: her daughter, Mia, and her late mother, Donna.
According to Anderson, people should become more aware of where their jewelry is coming from because “every time we make a purchase, we are voting with our money.” Anderson is proud of where her company is headed, recently becoming B Corp certified in America, the first lab-grown diamond retailer to do so. But she isn’t going to stop there, looking toward the planet, her cause, and more importantly, the people, as her reason for making a difference. “As for the little boy, Ponpon, he just completed University and runs our foundation projects in Liberia, Africa.”
Custom lab-grown diamond ring by MiaDonna.
Photos courtesy of MiaDonna
Paris ring set with natural recycled diamonds by MiaDonna.
At a November auction, de GRISOGONO’s ‘The Art of de GRISOGONO, Creation 1‘, broke records at the landmark Magnificent Jewels sale in Geneva. The ground-breaking necklace sold for $33,701,000.
This breathtaking masterpiece was designed by Fawaz Gruosi, the founder and creative director of de GRISOGONO.
The sale, which was the largest ever emerald-cut diamond offered at auction, marks a new milestone for de GRISOGONO. It broke the previous record price for a D Flawless Diamond which was $30,600,000.
“This auction marks a high point for de GRISOGONO and the team that have worked so tirelessly to bring this incredible stone to life in this beautiful piece, Creation 1,” Gruosi said. “This is the largest emerald-cut diamond ever to come to auction and so it was uncharted territory. I am truly privileged to have had the opportunity to work with a historic stone of such perfection and would thank everyone who has taken part in this beautiful journey from mine to masterpiece.”
The 404-carat rough diamond was acquired from the Lulo mine by de GRISOGONO’s partner, Nemesis. The final design was chosen in February 2017, in keeping with de GRISOGONO’s daring creativity, whilst simultaneously being fit for such a significant stone. Fourteen highly-skilled artisans spent 1,700 hours creating this astonishing necklace.
This diamond has impeccable credentials, entirely traceable from mine to masterpiece and compliant with the Kimberley Process certification authority. The 163.41 carats emerald-cut diamond has been certified by the GIA, the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls.
photo courtesy of de GRISOGONO
These Italian artisans combine years of experience (some more than a century) and the finest materials to create some of the most luxurious handcrafted pieces of Italian jewelry. Their diverse backgrounds and sources of inspiration result in bold and unique designs that are sure to make a statement.
By Christine Aebischer
Regina by De Simone
The exquisite designs of the historic Neapolitan house, De Simone, are based on more than a century-long tradition. Francesco De Simone & figlio was founded in 1855, through a passion for coral and shells. And in 1990, De Simone Fratelli was founded to continue the family tradition of jewelry design. The unique coral pieces are the epitome of elegance and exude skills that have been perfected over years of dedicated craftsmanship. The Regina set comprises a gold necklace, bracelet, ring and earrings. The delicately feminine pieces are decorated with De Simone’s signature angel skin coral, diamonds and emeralds. Priced at $85,875.
Yin Yan Parure by Margherita Burgener
Designer Margherita Burgener’s jewels have been auctioned at Phillips de Pury in Geneva, Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Artcurial, Poly Hong Kong and Bonhams. Her unique creations are the result of her family’s century-long tradition as goldsmiths in Valenza, the hometown of high-class Italian jewelry. Burgener created her first original piece in 2003 and debuted her limited edition Boutique line in 2011. In addition to designing her own pieces, she oversees the craftsmen in her family’s workshop to ensure the rare and valuable skills of her trade are preserved. Her Yin Yan Parure design features a set of earrings and mesh-link bracelets. Pavé diamonds and 18-karat yellow gold adorn the white and black enamel pieces. Priced at $84,000.
Disk by Kathaline Page-Guth
Born to Hungarian and American parents, Kathaline Page-Guth had an appreciation for art and creativity from an early age. She draws most of her inspiration from the city of Florence, where she has been working for the past 20 years. Her designs reflect a love of nature and animals, bringing together eccentric designs and colorful gems. For Page-Guth, a piece of fine jewelry is a symbolic and emotional investment to be treasured for generations to come. Her Disk earrings are handcrafted from oval-cut pink morganite beads that dangle elegantly from rings of blackened white gold set with diamonds. Priced at $28,900.